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Planting and Growing Broccoli

broccoli growing in the garden
Botanical Name
Brassica oleracea (Italica group)
Grown as
Biennial
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
1–3 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
Yellow
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Resilience
Cold Hardy
Plant Type
Vegetables
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Broccoli: the crown jewel of the garden—and your dinner plate! This cool-season crop is crisp, tender, and loaded with nutrition. Whether you’re planting in spring or planning for a fall feast, follow our guide to grow your own bountiful broccoli harvest.

Broccoli is a cool-season crop, so it should be started in early- to mid-spring (depending on your climate) for an early summer crop or in mid- to late summer for a fall crop. High temperatures will affect the development of the broccoli head (the harvestable part), so the goal is to get broccoli to mature before or after high temperatures are expected.

Broccoli takes a long time to mature, so be patient! Once you harvest the main head of a broccoli plant, it will often keep producing smaller side shoots that can be enjoyed for months.

This cole crop is worth growing for its nutritional content alone. It’s rich in vitamins and minerals and a good source of potassium, iron, calcium, fiber, vitamin C, and beta-carotenes.

Planting

When to Plant Broccoli

We recommend planting transplants (start plants) or seeding indoors

  • For a spring crop, transplant 2 to 3 weeks before your last spring frost date, once soil temperatures reach 40°F (4°C), but warmer soil is preferred and will greatly speed up development. Consult our Planting Calendar to see recommended dates for your area.
  • If you are starting seeds indoors, start 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date.

If you plant a fall crop, we would still recommend transplanting. Direct seeding in hot weather isn’t good for cole crops. 

Where to Plant Broccoli

Broccoli should be planted in a site that gets full sun (6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day). Lack of sunlight may produce thin, leggy plants and subpar heads. Soil should be well-draining and fertile. Use raised beds if you can’t adjust sandy or clay soil. To increase fertility before you plant, work in 2 to 4 inches of rich compost (humus) or a thin layer of manure in early spring. The soil pH should ideally be slightly acidic, between 6.0 and 7.0.

Spacing for Broccoli

How to Plant Broccoli

  • Plant transplants that are 4 to 6 weeks old (and have 4 or 5 leaves) outdoors, 12 to 20 inches apart, in holes slightly deeper than their container depth.
  • Space rows of broccoli 3 feet apart. (Closer spacing yields smaller main heads but more secondary heads.)
  • Water well at the time of planting.

Video Demo of Sowing Broccoli

For those who wish to start sowing in pots, watch Ben in this video show you how it’s done! See the whole process from sowing to transplanting to broccoli care and harvesting.

Growing

  • Plants thrive in temperatures between 65° and 70°F (18° and 21°C).
  • Fertilize broccoli three weeks after transplanting seedlings into the garden. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 formula.
  • Thin when young plants reach 2 to 3 inches tall. Plants should be between 12 and 20 inches apart.
  • Provide consistent soil moisture with regular watering, especially in drought conditions. Water at least 1 to 1 1/2 inches per week.
  • Do not get developing broccoli heads wet when watering, as it can encourage rot.
  • Roots are very shallow, so try not to disturb the plants—suffocate weeds with mulch instead of weeding.
  • Mulching around plants will also help to keep soil temperatures down.
  • Use row covers to minimize pests.
  • To promote the growth of a second head after the first has been harvested, maintain an active feeding and watering schedule.

Growing Broccoli, head of broccoli

Harvesting

  • Harvest broccoli in the morning, when the buds of the head are firm and tight, just before the heads flower.
  • If you do see yellow petals, harvest immediately, as the quality will decrease rapidly.
  • Cut heads from the plant, taking at least 6 inches of stem. Make a slanted cut on the stalk to allow water to slide away. (Water can pool and rot the center of a flat-cut stalk, ruining the secondary heads.)
  • Most varieties have side-shoots that will continue to develop after the main head is harvested. You can harvest from one plant for many weeks, in some cases, from spring to fall, if your summer isn’t too hot.
  • Learn more tips on harvesting broccoli.

How to Store Broccoli

  • Store broccoli in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
  • If you wash before storing, make sure to dry it thoroughly.
  • Broccoli can be blanched and frozen for up to one year. Learn how to freeze broccoli.

Close-up of broccoli heads

Pests and Problems

Broccoli Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectCurled, misshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold.Grow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of water and dish soap (no additives) every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects (such as ladybugs).
Cabbage loopersInsectLarge, ragged holes in leaves from larval feeding; defoliation; stunted or bored heads; excrement.Handpick off plants; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; spray larvae with insecticidal soap or Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt)—a natural, bacterial pesticide; use row covers; remove plant debris at end of season.
Cabbage root maggotsInsectWhite maggots become gray flies that resemble small houseflies. Wilted/stunted plants; off-color leaves; larvae feeding on roots.Use collars made of plastic or tin foil around seedling stems; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; use row covers; destroy crop residue; till soil in fall; rotate crops.
CabbagewormsInsectLeaves have large, ragged holes or are skeletonized; heads bored; dark green excrement; yellowish eggs laid singly on leaf undersides.Handpick; use row covers; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; grow companion plants (especially thyme); spray Bt (Bacillus thuringiensis).
ClubrootFungusWilted/stunted plants; yellow leaves; roots appear swollen/distorted.Destroy infected plants; solarize soil; maintain soil pH of around 7.2; disinfect tools; rotate crops.
Downy MildewFungusYellow, angular spots on upper leaf surfaces that turn brown; white/purple/gray cottony growth on leaf undersides only; distorted leaves; defoliation.Remove plant debris; choose resistant varieties; ensure good air circulation; avoid overhead watering.
Nitrogen deficiencyDeficiencyBottom leaves turn yellow and the problem continues toward the top of the plant.Supplement with a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer or blood meal. Blood meal is a quick nitrogen fix for yellowing leaves.
Stink bugsInsectYellow/white blotches on leaves; shriveled seeds; eggs, often keg-shape, in clusters on leaf undersides.Destroy crop residue; handpick (bugs emit odor, wear gloves); destroy eggs; spray nymphs with insecticidal soap; use row covers; weed; till soil in fall.
White rustFungusChalk-white blisters mainly on leaf undersides; small, yellow-green spots or blisters, sometimes in circular arrangement, on upper leaf surfaces; possible distortion or galls; flowers/stems may also be infected. More common with warm days and cool/moist nights. Destroy infected plants; choose resistant varieties; weed; destroy crop residue; rotate crops.
WhitefliesInsectSticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold; yellow/ silver areas on leaves; wilted/stunted plants; distortion; adults fly if disturbed; some species transmit viruses.Remove infested leaves/plants; use handheld vacuum to remove pests; spray water on leaf undersides in morning/evening to knock off pests; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; spray with insecticidal soap; invite beneficial insects and hummingbirds with native plants; weed; use reflective mulch.

Types

  • ‘Calabrese’ is an heirloom broccoli (from Italy) with large heads and prolific side shoots that will mature for harvesting. Great for fall planting, too.
  • ‘Flash’ is a fast-growing, heat-resistant hybrid with good side-shoot production once the central head is cut. Great for fall planting, too.
  • ‘Green Goliath’ is heat-tolerant with giant heads and prolific side shoots.
  • ‘Green Duke’ is heat tolerant and an early variety that’s especially good for Southern gardeners.
  • ‘Green Magic’ is heat tolerant; freezes well.
  • ‘Paragon’ has extra-long spears; excellent for freezing.

Wit and Wisdom

  • Broccoli is part of the Brassicaceae family, along with cabbage, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, and radishes.  The common type of broccoli in grocery stores is “Calabrese broccoli” (named after Calabria in Italy), which produces big green heads on thick stalks. 
  • Originally, broccoli was eaten for its stems.
  • Early Roman farmers called broccoli “the five green fingers of Jupiter.”
  • Once you’ve gotten broccoli down pat, why not try growing one of its relatives? See our Growing Guides for cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts, rutabaga, kale, and turnips!

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Fri, 03/28/2014 - 06:04

We'll try to help. It's very early spring do we're wondering if you are tranplanting too early but it all depends on where you live. Broccoli is temperature sensitive.  The ideal temperature for broccoli is between 65 and 80 degrees.  If it drops below 40 degrees, you'll have issues. You can check your local planting dates for both starting seeds indoors and setting plants in the ground here:

https://www.almanac.com/gardening/planting-calendar

 

 <span>Mildred Wiggins</span> Wed, 02/26/2014 - 15:37
I am looking for floating row cover. I do not order anything through internet access. I have tried the farm supplies, landscape business, Lowe's and a local hardware store and no one seems to carry it and most have no idea what I'm talking about. Can you give me any suggestions? Thanks.
<span>Donald Crawford</span> Sat, 03/08/2014 - 07:58
Bought it at Tractor Supply Company yesterday. Great price. $10 8x20.
<span>Kevin Boutte</span> Thu, 02/27/2014 - 19:46
Hello Mildred, You can go to the web sites suggested and request their catalogs. Hope this helps. Kevin
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 02/27/2014 - 17:58

Mildred, Floating row covers are also called "gardening fabric." You can find examples on garden seed sites such as www.Burpee.com and www.gardeners.com.  When you get to their web sites, just type in "floating row covers." Hope this helps.

 <span>Jlyfie</span> Thu, 02/20/2014 - 10:23
I'm not sure I understand how I'm supposed to plant the broccoli seeds - do I need to leave 12-24 inches space between my rows and then plant seeds 1 inch deep, 3 inches apart from one another?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 02/20/2014 - 17:20

Thanks for asking. We've clarified the text on this page. Plant each seed at a depth of 1/2 inch to 1 inch. Within a row, the spacing is 12 to 24 inches apart with 36 inches between each row. If you overseed, you'll just want to thin the seedlings so that they're no closer than 12 inches apart.

 <span>Bonnie M.</span> Mon, 02/03/2014 - 14:15
I planted brocolli in October here in Southern California (zone 10/11). My brocolli is about knee high with stalks only about a fingers thickness. I only have one small head with loose florets. Some of my other brocolli has been eaten starting from the edge of the leaves working inward. Ive looked and looked and have found No bugs! Could mice be eating it? Other veggies have the same eating marks and my FIL caught 20mice in only a few days... Weve also had very warm weather this winter in the 80s most of January. Could this be the cause of tall lanky broccoli with poorly formed heads?
<span>Robin In The Woods</span> Tue, 02/04/2014 - 16:24
The lanky growth on the broccoli is called buttoning the plant was stressed somehow when it was a seedling. In cooler climates it is due to freezing. When I gardened in Florida (coastal zone 10) it was normally caused by dryness or too much heat.
<span>Drew Becker</span> Fri, 05/30/2014 - 20:58
My plants are also knee high with full broad green leaves and .5 - 1 inch thick stems. Have these "bolted"? If so, can anything be done to promote heads to form?