Growing Broccoli

Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Broccoli

By Catherine Boeckmann
Broccoli Florets

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Broccoli is a sun-loving, cool-season crop that is best grown in the chillier weather of spring or fall. It’s also incredibly good for you and has been dubbed the “crown jewel of nutrition.” Here’s how to plant, grow, and harvest broccoli in your garden!

Broccoli is worth growing for its nutritional content alone. This cole crop is rich in vitamins and minerals, and is a good source of Vitamin A, potassium, folic acid, iron, and fiber. 

Broccoli takes a long time to mature, so be patient! Once you harvest the main head of a broccoli plant, it will often keep producing smaller side shoots that can be enjoyed for months to come.

Planting Dates for BROCCOLI

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Planting Calendar for all Plants

Planting

When to Plant Broccoli

  • Broccoli is cool-season crop, so it should be started in late winter or early spring (depending on your climate) for an early summer crop, or in mid- to late summer for a fall crop. High temperatures will affect development of the broccoli head (the harvestable part), so the goal is to get broccoli to mature before or after high temperatures are expected.
  • Broccoli seeds are capable of germinating in soil temperatures as low as 40°F (4°C), but warmer soil is preferred and will greatly speed up development.
  • For spring plantings, broccoli may be started indoors or outdoors a few weeks ahead of your last spring frost date. Consult our Planting Calendar to see recommended dates for your area. Generally speaking:
    • Start seeds indoors 6 to 8 weeks before your last frost date.
    • Sow seeds outdoors 2 to 3 weeks before your last frost date, or as soon as the soil can be worked in the spring.
  • For fall plantings (best in warm climates), sow seeds outdoors 85 to 100 days before the first fall frost, when soil and ambient temperatures are high.

Spacing for Broccoli

Preparing the Planting Site

  • Broccoli requires a site with exposure to full sun (6 to 8 hours per day). Lack of sunlight may produce thin, leggy plants and subpar heads.
  • Plant in a bed of moist, fertile soil that drains well.
  • Soil pH should be slightly acidic, between 6.0 and 7.0.
  • To increase fertility before you plant, in early spring, work in 2 to 4 inches of rich compost or a thin layer of manure. (Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.)

How to Plant Broccoli

  • If starting seeds outdoors, sow seeds ½-inch deep and 3 inches apart.
  • Once seedlings reach a height of 2 to 3 inches, thin them so that plants are 12 to 20 inches apart.
  • If you started seeds indoors, plant transplants that are 4 to 6 weeks old (and have 4 or 5 leaves) outdoors, 12 to 20 inches apart, in holes slightly deeper than their container depth. 
  • Space rows of broccoli 3 feet apart. (Closer spacing yields smaller main heads, but more secondary heads.)
  • Water well at the time of planting.

Care

Broccoli Plant Care

  • Plants thrive outdoors in 65°F to 70°F (18° to 21°C) conditions.
  • Fertilize broccoli three weeks after transplanting seedlings into the garden. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer.
  • Thin when young plants reach 2 to 3 inches tall. Plants should be between 12 and 20 inches apart.
  • Provide consistent soil moisture with regular watering, especially in drought conditions. Water at least 1 to 1 ½ inches per week.
  • Do not get developing broccoli heads wet when watering, as it can encourage rot.
  • Roots are very shallow, so try not to disturb the plants. Suffocate weeds with mulch.
  • Mulching around plants will also help to keep soil temperatures down.
  • Use row covers to minimize pests.
  • To promote the growth of a second head after the first has been harvested, maintain an active feeding and watering schedule.
  • Learn more about taking care of your broccoli plant.

Growing Broccoli Video

We’ll show you how to grow broccoli in the garden!

Pests/Diseases

  • Aphids: Curling leaves may mean that the plant’s sap is being sucked by insects. Apply soapy water to all sides of leaves whenever you see aphids.
  • Cabbage loopers: Small holes on the leaves between the veins mean small green caterpillars are present. Look at the undersides of the leaves. Hand pick if the problem is small or control with Bacillus thuringiensis, a natural, bacterial pesticide. Use a floating row cover just after planting through harvest to prevent caterpillars.
  • Cabbage root maggots
  • Cabbageworms and other worm pests: Treat same as loopers.
  • Clubroot: Quickly wilting plants may be due to this fungus in the soil. The entire plant, including all roots and root tendrils, must be gently dug up and removed. If the roots are gnarled and misshapen, then clubroot is the problem. Act quickly to remove the plants so that the fungus doesn’t continue to live in the soil. Do not compost the plants. Raise the pH of your soil to above 7.2. You may need to sterilize your soil, too.
  • Downy Mildew: Yellow patches on leaves are usually caused by moist weather. Keep leaves as dry as possible with good air circulation. Buy resistant varieties.
  • White rust
  • Whiteflies
  • Nitrogen deficiency: If the bottom leaves turn yellow and the problem continues toward the top of the plant, the plants need a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer or blood meal. Blood meal is a quick nitrogen fix for yellowing leaves.

Broccoli close-up

Harvest/Storage

How to Harvest Broccoli

  • Harvest broccoli in the morning, when the buds of the head are firm and tight, just before the heads flower.
  • If you do see yellow petals, harvest immediately, as the quality will decrease rapidly.
  • Cut heads from the plant, taking at least 6 inches of stem. Make a slanted cut on the stalk to allow water to slide away. (Water can pool and rot the center of a flat-cut stalk, runing the secondary heads.)
  • Most varieties have side-shoots that will continue to develop after the main head is harvested. You can harvest from one plant for many weeks, in some cases, from spring to fall, if your summer isn’t too hot.
  • Learn more tips on harvesting broccoli.

How to Store Broccoli

  • Store broccoli in the refrigerator for up to 5 days.
  • If you wash before storing, make sure to dry it thoroughly.
  • Broccoli can be blanched and frozen for up to one year.

 

Growing Broccoli

Recommended Varieties

  • ‘Calabrese’ is an Italian heirloom with large heads and prolific side shoots that will mature for harvesting. Great for fall planting, too.
  • ‘Flash’ is a fast-growing, heat-resistant hybrid with good side-shoot production once the central head is cut. Great for fall planting, too.
  • ‘Green Goliath’ is heat-tolerant with giant heads and prolific side shoots.
  • ‘Green Duke’ is heat tolerant and an early variety that’s especially good for Southern gardeners.
  • ‘Green Magic’ is heat tolerant; freezes well.
  • ‘Paragon’ has extra-long spears; excellent for freezing.

Wit & Wisdom

  • Originally, broccoli was eaten for its stems.
  • Early Roman farmers referred to broccoli as “the five green fingers of Jupiter.”
  • Once you’ve gotten broccoli down pat, why not try growing one of its relatives? See our Growing Guides for cauliflower, cabbage, brussels sprouts, rutabaga, kale, and turnips!

Recipes

Cooking Notes

One ounce of broccoli has an equal amount of calcium as one ounce of milk. Learn more about the amazing health benefits of broccoli. 

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Reader Comments

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Your plant has gone to seed,

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on June 3, 2012 - 7:56pm

Your plant has gone to seed, however, you can cut off the head and let the plant develop new baby/side heads for eating!

gone to seed

Submitted by Anonymous on January 12, 2013 - 12:14pm

Does this mean you can not eat the broccoli? My first head started flowering, what should I do with the head?

If you do see yellow petals

Catherine Boeckmann's picture

Submitted by Catherine Boeckmann on January 14, 2013 - 3:58pm

If you do see yellow petals growing the green head of broccoli, harvest immediately.
To harvest, cut the stem below the head, taking at least 6 inches.

broccoli

Submitted by cynde129 on May 25, 2012 - 3:06pm

My plants are turning white and drying up, What is the problem? We have had 85-92 degrees lately. I have been watering them also.Thanks for any help.

It might be nitrogen

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 29, 2012 - 9:21pm

It might be nitrogen deficiency--one of the more common problems as broccoli is a heavy nitrogen feeder. Add blood meal or a high nitrogen (but low phosphorus) fertilizer.

Yellow flowers

Submitted by Anonymous on May 24, 2012 - 9:08pm

Have very young small stem planets that looked like they were heading up but..alas..it turned into a yellow flower..what going on..what can I do.

Broccoli flowering too soon

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 29, 2012 - 8:55pm

If you have premature flowering, this is usually due to very warm temperatures at heading time. Broccoli is a cool-weather plant.

How long?

Submitted by Anonymous on March 13, 2012 - 2:39pm

How long does it usually take for broccoli and brussel sprouts to get ready to harvest? I'm using plants and not seeds.

Harvesting broccoli

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on March 13, 2012 - 4:24pm

Harvest the central head when the individual florets begin to enlarge and develop and before flowering begins. It depends on the variety, but central heads should grow to be at least 4 to 6 inches in diameter. Late side shoots may reach only 1 to 2 inches in diameter.

approx. weeks to harvest

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on March 13, 2012 - 4:35pm

Broccoli seedlings will take 8 to 12 weeks from transplant until harvest time, depending on the variety. But look for the cues mentioned above! You really only have 1 week or so to do the first harvest. If you leave it too late, yellow flowers will form.

broccoli maturity

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on May 29, 2012 - 8:57pm

It depends on the variety, season, and fertilization but usually the head is as large as it's going to get when the individual buds of the broccoli are match-head size.

Broccoli problems

Submitted by hrfinnie on April 15, 2011 - 11:57am

My broccoli leaves are turning purple then dying. The purple is travellng up the stem into the florets. What's going on and can my plants be saved?

Planting now in July

Submitted by dejuanar on July 10, 2010 - 11:03am

What can I plant in Texas during July? Is it too soon to start the winter crops? Or should I plant more summer crops; such as cucumbers and squash.

Keep planting! You can still

The Editors's picture

Submitted by The Editors on July 13, 2010 - 9:48am

Keep planting! You can still put in broccoli, cauliflower, brussels sprouts and cucumber, all by seed. Consult your local nursery for more information about good crops for your specific area. Remember, you have miles to go before your first fall frost! Make sure you water adequately for the hot days. You can also start some winter crops in early August too, such as winter squash and pumpkins. Good luck!

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Growing Broccoli

Botanical Name Brassica oleracea (Italica group)
Plant Type Vegetable
Sun Exposure Full Sun
Soil Type Sandy
Soil pH Slightly Acidic to Neutral
Bloom Time
Flower Color Yellow
Hardiness Zones 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10
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