Okra isn’t just for gumbo anymore! This Southern staple is showing up in gardens everywhere, and for good reason. It’s easy to grow, fun to harvest, and comes with tropical-looking flowers that would make a hibiscus blush.
Whether you’re a seasoned grower or okra-curious, we’ve got all the tips to help you grow it like a garden rockstar. Let’s get planting!
Many gardeners are discovering okra, and the range of this warm-weather crop has been creeping northward and gaining in popularity. This plant not only grows edible vegetables and beautiful flowers, but it is also rich in vitamin A and low in calories, which makes it a great addition to your diet.
Growing
- Eliminate weeds when the plants are young, then mulch heavily—4 to 8 inches—to prevent more weeds.
- During the growing season, Joseph Masabni of Texas A&M recommends that you “cultivate around the okra plants to remove weeds and grass. To avoid damaging the okra roots, pull weeds close to the plants by hand.”
- Side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (1/2 pound per 25 feet of row). You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Avoid too much nitrogen, which deters flowering and encourages leafy growth. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
- When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 18 to 24 inches apart.
- Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months. One inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region.
- High heat can slow the growth of okra.
- Prune the tops of okra plants when they reach 5 to 6 feet tall. This will result in more side branches. Prune those as needed.
- In warm regions, some growers cut plants to about 2 feet when productivity slows in summer. The plants grow back and produce another crop of okra.
Note: Okra has large, hairy leaves, as well as tiny spines on its pods, both of which may cause skin irritation; consider wearing gloves and/or long sleeves when handling. “Spineless” types have pods that don’t present this problem. Regardless of type, irritation does not occur when you eat okra.
Harvesting
When you harvest okra, get out the gloves and wear a long-sleeved shirt to protect yourself from the tiny spines that can make your hands and arms itch for days.
- Once okra is ripe, harvest every day! The pods grow so fast and ripen within a day, so you need to pick continually. Overripe okra is too tough to eat.
- The best pods are only 2 to 4 inches long. This is when okra is at its softest and most digestible.
- Cut the stem just above the cap with a knife. If the stem is too hard to cut, the pod is probably too old and should be tossed.
- Only one pod grows beneath each leaf, so break off the leaf after harvesting the pod.
- Harvest often: The more you pick, the more flowers will appear, and okra goes from flowering to fruit in a few days.
- A severe freeze can damage pods. If one is predicted and pods are drying on the plant for seeds, cut the plant and hang it indoors to dry. Put a paper bag over it so if the pods shatter, the seeds will not be lost.
In the South, regular okra plants can get too tall to harvest; if this happens, cut them back to 12 to 18 inches above the ground. This is usually done in July or August. The plants will sprout again to make a second crop. Otherwise, consider a dwarf variety!
How to Store Okra
- To store okra, put the uncut and uncooked pods into freezer bags and keep them in the freezer. Or wash and blanch okra before freezing.
- Or, can okra to have it throughout the winter.
Types
Standard varieties can top 8 feet or more! Dwarf types, which seldom exceed 5 feet in height, are best for containers.
- ‘Blondy’: spineless; dwarf at 3 feet tall; 3-inch pale green pods; ideal for northern growers
- ‘Burgundy’: abundant 6- to 8-inch pods (harvest at 3 inches) on 3- to 5-foot-tall plants; edible ornamental, with deep red stem, branches, leaf ribs, and fruit
- ‘Cajun Jewel’: dwarf at 2 1/2 to 4 feet tall; tasty 8-inch pods up to 1 inch in diameter
- ‘Clemson Spineless’: tasty 6 1/2-inch to 9-inch pods on 4-foot tall plants
- ‘Louisiana Green Velvet’: spineless; vigorous to 6 feet tall; good for large areas
More Like This
Conditions are amazing for growing anything if conditions are right. Yellow leaves and stunted growth are signs of fusarium root or stem rot. That's typically a sign of "bad" soil. Was your soil "new" or used? If you were growing in the ground, we would recommend crop rotation.
If you have any more seeds, and want to try again, empty and sterilize the pots. Use new soil‚ rich in organic matter and slighhtly sandy (so it's not too dense). Presoak the seeds before planting. (Some say freeze it to break the hard shell; can't recommend that, never tried it.)
Better luck this next time—
We appreciate that you appreciate our advice. Please understand that, from a distance like this, we don't have all the answers. Every situation is unique. Hearing that you had success with okra in the ground, with soil amended as you say, suggests that maybe you should have done the same—used the same soil—in the pots. If you have seeds, that may be an option.
Going back to your original problem, the okra are stunted and the leaves are turning yellow. We suggested that you might have fusarium root or stem rot. Here we are a few days later . . . still the same? You might be better off starting all over. We can't comment on the soil you bought as good for this purpose (maybe the vendor can). If this was me/us, and we had a couple/few seeds remaining, we would start over, using soil that has proven successful—the mix that you used in the ground-growing plants.
Clearlly you know what you're doing, if you had success; the aim is to repeat it . . . so do the same thing.
We really hope this helps. Gardening is somewhat trial and error, no matter what the gardener's experience level (that includes me/us).
Okra has been grown with sweet potatoes, but I couldn't find information about planting with regular potatoes. If you want to try, make sure that you plant the taller okra so that they won't shade out the potatoes, which also like full sun. Potatoes will require hilling, so provide enough space to do so. The two plants are in separate families, so that should help with certain pests and diseases.
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