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How to Grow Parsnips: Planting, Growing, and Harvesting Guide

clean parsnips on paper
Image Credit:
Martina Unbehauen/Shutterstock
Botanical Name
Pastinaca sativa
Grown as
Biennial
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Partial Sun
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
1–3 feet
Spread
1–3 feet
Soil pH
Neutral
Special Features
Deer-resistant
Resilience
Cold Hardy
Plant Type
Vegetables
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Feeling bold? Try growing the unsung hero of the root veggie world: the parsnip! These pale beauties thrive in cool weather and actually improve in flavor after a good frost. Think sweet, nutty, and earthy perfection—especially when roasted to caramelized glory.

Whether you’re a seasoned gardener or just digging in, our guide will show you how to plant, grow, and harvest parsnips like a pro. Let’s root for parsnips!

Parsnips need a long growing season and are best harvested after a few fall frosts; if planted too late in the season, their roots will be small. 

Parsnips lend a nutty, sweet flavor to any dish, but these root vegetables can also be enjoyed by themselves as a side dish. (Roasting is a favored method!) Plus, they are packed with nutrients, like potassium and vitamins B6 and C.

Planting

Plant parsnips in a sunny area with loose soil that drains well and is free of rocks. As with carrots, clay or compacted soils can cause parsnip roots to be thin and misshapen. Make sure the area is clear of weeds. Loosen the soil to a depth of 12 to 15 inches and mix in a 2- to 4-inch layer of compost or aged manure for fertility.

When to Plant Parsnips

Parsnips need a long growing season, so sow seeds as soon as the soil is workable in the spring. Parsnip seeds will germinate in soil temperatures as low as 48°F (9°C), but ideally soil at 50º to 54ºF (10° to 12°C) will speed germination.

How to Plant Parsnips

Don’t plant where sod grew in the previous season. Excess nitrogen in the soil will cause overabundant top growth and poor root development. Consider doing a soil test.   

  • Always sow fresh seed. Parsnip seeds do not store well, and seeds that are more than a year old will have a reduced germination rate.
  • Sow seeds directly in the garden.
  • Sow seeds 1/2 inch deep, 1 inch apart, in rows 18 to 24 inches wide.
    • Tip: Sow radish seeds in between your parsnip seedings. Radishes will grow quickly, marking the row and breaking the dirt’s crust for the parsnips.
  • Parsnips are slow to germinate. Seedlings typically emerge in 2 to 3 weeks, or longer in soil temperatures below 50°F (10°C). To hasten the process, keep the soil moist.
    • Tip: Another way to speed up germination is to start by soaking paper towels or cotton wool pads.  Place them on a saucer and press papery parsnip seeds into them. Keep the seeds warm (50º to 54ºF) and watch for little white roots to appear. Then sow as described. Discard any seeds that fail.

harvested parsnips in a basket

Growing

  • Once seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin them so that they’re spaced 3 to 4 inches apart. To avoid disturbing the delicate roots of the remaining seedlings, simply snip off the tops; do not pull seedlings.
  • Use row covers to deter pests such as carrot rust flies.
  • Always keep the beds free of weeds, especially when plants are young. Mulching suppresses seeds and retains moisture.
  • Water in summer if rainfall is less than 1 inch per week. Parsnips need a fair amount of moisture to form healthy roots.
  • As long as you started with good soil, fertilizing is likely not necessary. Excess nitrogen will encourage top growth instead of root growth.
  • Once roots start to form, hill soil around the plants’ base to prevent greening of the roots’ shoulders.

Note: Be careful about handling parsnips, as the sap and/or leaves can be irritating to the skin. Wear long pants, long sleeves, and gloves when weeding or harvesting.

Harvesting

Parsnips mature in about 16 weeks after planting, depending on the variety. Harvest when roots are at least 1 inch in diameter.

When exposed to near-freezing temperatures for 2 to 4 weeks in the fall/early winter, the starch in the root changes into sugar, resulting in a strong, sweet, unique taste.

  • Leave your parsnips in the ground for a few frosts, but harvest before the ground freezes.
  • Or leave them in the ground for the entire winter, covered with a thick layer of mulch. Harvest immediately after the ground thaws in the spring, before top growth starts. If a flower stalk develops, roots may turn woody.
picking a parsnip in the garden
Credit: Deyan Georgiev/Shutterstock

How to Store Parsnips

Before storing parsnips, trim foliage down to 2 to 3 inches. Store parsnips between 32° and 35°F (0° and 2°C), with a humidity of 90 to 95%. For longer-term storage (4 to 6 months), store roots in slightly damp sand, sawdust, or leaves.

Pests and Problems

Parsnip Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black moldGrow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of dish soap (no additives) and water every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects
Black (Itersonilia) cankerFungusShallow, reddish brown/purple/black cankers form on crown and/or shoulder of root; small, orange-brown spots on leaves may have green halosChoose resistant varieties; cover exposed shoulders of roots with soil; rotate crops
Carrot rust fliesInsectWilted/stunted plants; tunnels with rust-color excrement in roots; root rotMonitor adults with yellow sticky traps; use row covers; add native plants to invite beneficial insects; destroy crop residue
Leaf minersInsectMeandering blisters in leaves caused by tunneling larvaeRemove infested leaves; weed diligently; use row covers; till soil early in season; rotate crops

Types

Choose short-root varieties for soil that is shallow, heavy, and/or contains a lot of rocks.

  • ‘All-American’: Tapered, 10- to 12-inch white roots; high sugar content; stores well
  • ‘Harris Model’: Smooth, tapered, 10-inch white roots, free of side roots
  • ‘Hollow Crown’: Mild, 12-inch white, fine-grain roots; flavor improves after frost
  • ‘Kral Russian’: Heirloom; beet-shaped root; good for shallow or heavy soil.

Wit and Wisdom

Parsnips, popular with ancient Greeks and Romans, were brought over to the Americas with the first colonists. A relative of carrots and parsley, parsnips are biennials even though they’re usually grown as annual vegetables. 

Soft words butter no parsnips, but they won’t harden the heart of the cabbage either.
–Irish proverb

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website, and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Krayna Feinberg</span> Thu, 08/09/2018 - 20:50
We have parsnips growing in our garden that I want to leave in the ground until it is cold, but the above ground growth is very tall and might be about to flower. Can I cut that back without damaging the parsnips? I live in Washington, DC.
<span>Steve Wood</span> Mon, 06/03/2019 - 19:49
Parsnip left in ground over winter stalks 18” tall about to flower. What to do with flower? Will parsnips be any good?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Tue, 06/04/2019 - 11:02

If you leave parsnips in the soil over winter, throw a few inches of soil over the crowns after the first fall frosts. Stored starches are changed to sugar in early spring as the old plants prepare for new growth, thus roots harvested in early spring are especially tender and sweet. However, you need to pull them in early spring or as soon as possible, before they flower. Otherwise, the roots lose flavor and become fibrous if you do not harvest them before new tops and seed stalks begin to grow. 

 <span>Edie</span> Sun, 07/01/2018 - 15:14
I planted my parsnips in the fall and left them over the winter. Now the stalks are close to 2 feet. And they are starting to flower. Is this normal? Should I pull them now or leave til late summer? I live in Newfoundland, Canada
<span>Bertpeters</span> Mon, 06/04/2018 - 22:22
Do they produce seeds in the second year,since we left then in the ground thru the winter.The tops are already 20" high.
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 06/06/2018 - 16:02

Parsnips are technically a biennial that sets seed in its second year. Congratulations on your crop!

 <span>Sandie</span> Thu, 06/14/2018 - 09:55
I leave my parsnips in the garden every winter. Pull in the spring. Soooo sweet and delicious!!!
<span>Dave</span> Sat, 06/02/2018 - 17:58
Is it ok for my parsnips to have flower during its growing cycle?
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Wed, 06/06/2018 - 16:11

Excess nitrogen in the soil will cause overabundant top growth, rather than putting its energy into the root development. Do a soil test. The best soil is well drained with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8.

 <span>Maren Behringer</span> Mon, 08/28/2017 - 15:20
I live in San Diego, and we don't get frost. Can I grow parsnips here? We still have a few more hot months to get through. Should I plant now or wait until late October when the night start to cool down?