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How to Grow Okra: Planting, Growing & Harvesting Tips

harvested okra pods
Botanical Name
Abelmoschus esculentus
Grown as
Tender Perennial
USDA Zones
10a
10b
11a
11b
Toxicity
Non-toxic
Sun Exposure
Full Sun
Water Needs
Moderate
Height
3-6 feet
Spread
1–3 feet
Bloom Time
Summer
Flower Color
White
Yellow
Special Features
Container-Friendly
Cut Flower
Attracts Butterflies
Attracts Pollinators
Deer-resistant
Resilience
Drought-Tolerant
Heat-Tolerant
Plant Type
Vegetables
Written By: Catherine Boeckmann Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Okra isn’t just for gumbo anymore! This Southern staple is showing up in gardens everywhere, and for good reason. It’s easy to grow, fun to harvest, and comes with tropical-looking flowers that would make a hibiscus blush. 

Whether you’re a seasoned grower or okra-curious, we’ve got all the tips to help you grow it like a garden rockstar. Let’s get planting!

Many gardeners are discovering okra, and the range of this warm-weather crop has been creeping northward and gaining in popularity. This plant not only grows edible vegetables and beautiful flowers, but it is also rich in vitamin A and low in calories, which makes it a great addition to your diet. 

Okra flower
If you look at the flower of okra, you’ll see a resemblance to a hibiscus flower. It’s no coincidence—okra is a member of the hibiscus family!

Planting

Okra needs full sun and hot weather with evening temperatures that are in the 60°s (Fahrenheit) or warmer. Soil needs to be fertile and well-draining, with a neutral pH of 6.5 to 7.0. Before planting, mix aged manure and/or compost into the soil. 

When to Plant Okra

  • Sow okra directly into the garden 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost date and cover the plants with a 2- to 3-foot-high cold frame or grow tunnel until the weather warms up fully. Make sure that the covering is this high so that plants have room to grow. Or, to direct -sow okra seeds without any protection from the cold, wait until the soil is 65° to 75°F.
  • Where summers are short, especially in more northern areas, start okra seeds indoors in peat pots under full light 3 to 4 weeks before the last spring frost.

How to Plant Okra

Okra’s BB-pellet-sized seeds have a hard shell. To speed germination, soak seeds for a few hours in warm water before sowing.

  • Plant okra seeds about 1/2 to 1 inch deep and 12 to 18 inches apart in a row. You can soak the seeds overnight in tepid water to help speed up germination.
  • If you are planting okra transplants, be sure to space them 1 to 2 feet apart to give them ample room to grow.
  • Okra plants are tall, so space out the rows 3 to 4 feet apart.

Growing

  • Eliminate weeds when the plants are young, then mulch heavily—4 to 8 inches—to prevent more weeds.
  • During the growing season, Joseph Masabni of Texas A&M recommends that you “cultivate around the okra plants to remove weeds and grass. To avoid damaging the okra roots, pull weeds close to the plants by hand.”
  • Side-dress the plants with 10-10-10, aged manure, or rich compost (1/2 pound per 25 feet of row). You could also apply a balanced liquid fertilizer monthly. Avoid too much nitrogen, which deters flowering and encourages leafy growth. Learn more about soil amendments and preparing soil for planting.
  • When the seedlings are about 3 inches tall, thin the plants so that they are 18 to 24 inches apart.
  • Keep the plants well watered throughout the summer months. One inch of water per week is ideal, but use more if you are in a hot, arid region.
  • High heat can slow the growth of okra.
  • Prune the tops of okra plants when they reach 5 to 6 feet tall. This will result in more side branches. Prune those as needed.
  • In warm regions, some growers cut plants to about 2 feet when productivity slows in summer. The plants grow back and produce another crop of okra.
okra plants with flowers and okra
Photo credit: Chunumunu/GettyImages

Note: Okra has large, hairy leaves, as well as tiny spines on its pods, both of which may cause skin irritation; consider wearing gloves and/or long sleeves when handling. “Spineless” types have pods that don’t present this problem. Regardless of type, irritation does not occur when you eat okra.

Harvesting

When you harvest okra, get out the gloves and wear a long-sleeved shirt to protect yourself from the tiny spines that can make your hands and arms itch for days. 

  • Once okra is ripe, harvest every day! The pods grow so fast and ripen within a day, so you need to pick continually. Overripe okra is too tough to eat.
  • The best pods are only 2 to 4 inches long. This is when okra is at its softest and most digestible.
  • Cut the stem just above the cap with a knife. If the stem is too hard to cut, the pod is probably too old and should be tossed.
  • Only one pod grows beneath each leaf, so break off the leaf after harvesting the pod.
cutting okra off from the plant
Photo credit: fz750/GettyImages
  • Harvest often: The more you pick, the more flowers will appear, and okra goes from flowering to fruit in a few days.
  • A severe freeze can damage pods. If one is predicted and pods are drying on the plant for seeds, cut the plant and hang it indoors to dry. Put a paper bag over it so if the pods shatter, the seeds will not be lost.

In the South, regular okra plants can get too tall to harvest; if this happens, cut them back to 12 to 18 inches above the ground. This is usually done in July or August. The plants will sprout again to make a second crop. Otherwise, consider a dwarf variety!

How to Store Okra

  • To store okra, put the uncut and uncooked pods into freezer bags and keep them in the freezer. Or wash and blanch okra before freezing.
  • Or, can okra to have it throughout the winter.

Pests and Problems

Okra Pests and Diseases
Pest/DiseaseTypeSymptomsControl/Prevention
AphidsInsectMisshapen/yellow leaves; distorted flowers/fruit; sticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black moldGrow companion plants; knock off with water spray; apply insecticidal soap; put banana or orange peels around plants; wipe leaves with a 1 to 2 percent solution of dish soap (no additives) and water every 2 to 3 days for 2 weeks; add native plants to invite beneficial insects
Fusarium wiltFungusPlants wilt (sometimes on just one side) in daytime; leaves turn yellow (lower ones first); later, entire plant wilts/dies; stunting; stem cross section reveals brown discolorationDestroy infected plants; avoid excessive nitrogen; in acidic soils, raise pH to 7.0; choose resistant varieties; disinfect tools; rotate crops
Japanese beetlesInsectLeaves skeletonized (only veins remain); stems/flowers/fruit chewed; grubs feed on rootsHandpick; use row covers
Powdery mildewFungusTypically, white spots on upper leaf surfaces expand to flour-like coating over entire leaves; foliage may yellow/die; distortion/stunting of leaves/flowersDestroy infected leaves or plants; choose resistant varieties; plant in full sun, if possible; ensure good air circulation; spray plants with 1 teaspoon baking soda dissolved in 1 quart water; destroy crop residue
Root-knot nematodesNematodeRoots “knotty” or galled; plants stunted/yellow/wiltedDestroy crop residue, including roots; choose resistant varieties; solarize soil; add aged manure/compost; disinfect garden tools; till in autumn; rotate crops
StinkbugsInsectYellow/white blotches on leaves; scarred, dimpled, or distorted fruit/pods; shriveled seeds; eggs, often keg-shape, in clusters on leaf undersidesDestroy crop residue; handpick (bugs emit odor, wear gloves); destroy eggs, spray nymphs with insecticidal soap; use row covers; weed diligently; till soil in fall
WhitefliesInsectSticky “honeydew” (excrement); sooty, black mold; yellow/silver areas on leaves; wilted/stunted plants; distortion; adults fly if disturbed; some species transmit virusesRemove infested leaves/plants; use handheld vacuum to remove pests; spray water on leaf undersides in morning/evening to knock off pests; monitor adults with yellow sticky traps; spray with insecticidal soap; invite beneficial insects and hummingbirds with native plants; weed diligently; use reflective mulch

Types

Standard varieties can top 8 feet or more! Dwarf types, which seldom exceed 5 feet in height, are best for containers. 

  • ‘Blondy’: spineless; dwarf at 3 feet tall; 3-inch  pale green pods; ideal for northern growers
  • ‘Burgundy’: abundant 6- to 8-inch pods (harvest at 3 inches) on 3- to 5-foot-tall plants; edible ornamental, with deep red stem, branches, leaf ribs, and fruit
  • ‘Cajun Jewel’: dwarf at 2 1/2 to 4 feet tall; tasty 8-inch pods up to 1 inch in diameter
  • ‘Clemson Spineless’: tasty 6 1/2-inch to 9-inch pods on 4-foot tall plants
  • ‘Louisiana Green Velvet’: spineless; vigorous to 6 feet tall; good for large areas

Wit and Wisdom

  • Okra is sometimes called “lady’s fingers” thanks to the vegetable’s long, slender, elegant shape.
  • Thomas Jefferson determined freshness by bending the pod: If it gave, it was too old. If it broke, it was just right.
  • Thomas Jefferson grew okra in the vegetable gardens at Monticello. “An heirloom cultivar, ‘Cow’s Horn’, may be very similar to the ones he grew,” explains Craig R. Andersen, Associate Professor at the University of Arkansas.
  • If an okra stem is too hard to cut, the pod is probably too old. Dry it out and use it in floral arrangements, or save the seeds for next year.
  • “You can have strip pokra—Give me a nice girl and a dish of okra.” 
    –Roy Blunt, humorist (b. 1941)

Vegetables

About The Author

Catherine Boeckmann

Catherine Boeckmann

Executive Digital Editor and Master Gardener

Catherine Boeckmann loves nature, stargazing, and gardening, so it’s not surprising that she and The Old Farmer’s Almanac found each other. She leads digital content for the Almanac website and is also a certified master gardener in the state of Indiana.

Read more from Catherine Boeckmann

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Comments

<span>Suzicat</span> Wed, 07/03/2013 - 13:57
I'm trying to figure out if my okra is still good...at least good enough to make pickles with them. I received a 1/2 bushel of okra that I've been trying to use up for the past 2 weeks. It still looks pretty good in the box on my dining room table with no refrigeration. I cut one open last night and there is a BLACK SEED CANAL but the other seed canals looked fine as did the outside of the okra. They are starting to get a couple of brown spots but they are not soft or black on the outside. Any advice would be most appreciated!
<span>Cynthia Whetstone</span> Wed, 07/03/2013 - 11:05
would like to see a picture of okra in flower stage,never grown it before want to be sure and get full plants
<span>Usda Grader</span> Wed, 06/05/2013 - 08:29
I planted some okra seeds a couple of weeks ago and are now about 3 to 4 inches high. If I thin them out like its recommended can I replant the ones I pull out somewhere else? Can the ones I take out be saved or will they died if I transplant them somewhere else.
<span>Beeba</span> Mon, 05/27/2013 - 10:23
Here's a yummy way to enjoy okra. Pick, wash ,and cut into disks. Fry in a small amount of hot oil (no coating). When crisp, drain on paper towels, and sprinkle with garam masala. Garam masala is a spice blend used in Indian cooking and can be found in Indian grocery stores. Great as a snack or as a side dish with pork loin.
<span>California Queen</span> Wed, 05/22/2013 - 19:42
has anyone tried okra chips? i think you liquid nitrogen them and add salt. tried some at the grocery store the other day and they were DELICIOUS!!
<span>Crystal0608</span> Mon, 05/12/2014 - 11:54
interested in the okra chips???? Can I get more info?????
<span>Anonymous</span> Wed, 05/01/2013 - 14:49
I planted some okra seedlings in my garden bout 6 weeks ago and they are growing very slow....is that ok or do I need to replant...they've only grown 2 inches taller in the last month
<span>Anonymous</span> Mon, 05/06/2013 - 09:56
I had the same issue with my plants last year. Give them time. Okra won't start to really take off and grow well until the heat hits consistently and the soil warms up. Once warmer days arrive though, watch out! My Clemson spineless was well over 10 feet tall by late summer in 2012.
<span>Anonymous</span> Wed, 04/17/2013 - 18:59
Can you freeze whole then thaw without it being soggy like peppers
<a title="View user profile." href="/author/editors">The Editors</a> Thu, 04/18/2013 - 16:13
Yes, you can freeze okra. The smooth types freeze better than the ridged types. Here are instructions from the OK cooperative extension: How to freeze okra: Select young tender pods and separate into small pods (4 inches or under) and large pods. Wash. Remove the stems at the end of the seed cells, being careful not to expose the seed cell. Water blanch small pods 3 minutes and large pods 5 minutes. Cool promptly and drain. Leave whole or slice crosswise. Package, leaving 1/2-inch headspace. Seal and freeze.