Container gardening makes it easy to grow fresh, homegrown vegetables just about anywhere—from balconies to back steps. But unlike flowers, vegetables need a little more TLC: richer soil, bigger pots, and plenty of nutrients to fuel all that tasty growth. Lettuce show you how it’s done! This guide walks you through everything you need to grow veggies in containers—including size of pots and best veggies for containers.
What is Vegetable Container Gardening?
Vegetable container gardening means growing your favorite veggies—like tomatoes, lettuce, or peppers—in pots instead of planting them in the ground. It’s perfect if you don’t have a yard or if your soil isn’t great. But remember, when it comes to containers, size does matter! You can use all kinds of containers, from big flowerpots to buckets or window boxes—anything that holds soil and lets water drain out. With plenty of sun, good soil, and regular watering, you can grow fresh, tasty vegetables right on your porch, balcony, or patio.
The Benefits of Container Gardening
The great thing about growing in containers is being able to pick up pots and move them where you know they’ll thrive. Even if it’s only one or two pots on the side of your driveway or in the corner of your balcony, gardening in containers allows you to maximize all of your available space.
Containers can be placed close to your back or side door; if you can easily access your plants, you are more likely to take care of them and harvest them in a timely manner, too.
Container gardening also gives you much more control over your growing. Not only do you avoid poor soil, but also you can have an ideal growing medium with the right amount of nutrients. You can also tailor the potting mix to special crops.
You’ll certainly have fewer weeds or none at all, and you can streamline your gardening tasks. Harvesting is much cleaner and easier, too.
Another benefit of containers is that they raise plants above the ground, so your vegetables avoid being shadowed by other crops.
Of course, the one thing to know about containers is that they usually need more watering than a plant in the ground. This relates to the location that you choose for your containers …
Where to Put Your Pots
Similar to a regular garden in the ground, it’s important to determine where to put your containers, and consider things such as sunlight exposure, water accessibility, and protection from wind.
To maximize your veggie harvest, you’ll want to place your pots in an area that gets full sun (i.e., 6 to 8 hours of sunlight per day). Lettuce, spinach, and other greens can grow well in less sunlight (3 to 5 hours per day), but for fruiting plants like tomatoes, peppers, squash, or eggplant, full sun should be the goal. Southern and western exposures will provide the most sunlight and warmth, while northern and eastern exposures will be shadier and cooler.
It’s also a good idea to put your pots somewhere that you can reach with a watering hose. Keep in mind that container gardens tend to need more water than standard in-ground gardens, and there’s nothing worse than having to lug a gardening can across your yard a dozen times every morning—and then having to do it again in the evening! Having an easily accessible source of water nearby will save you a lot of time and effort.
Protecting containers from direct wind keeps them from drying out as much and prevents accidental tipping over. Depending on the size of your containers and the plants you’re growing, they may get top-heavy as the season goes on, which makes them more vulnerable to tipping over in strong winds. Place containers in sheltered locations or plan to secure them (e.g., with cinderblocks, stones, or ropes).
Finally, think about the microclimates that exist on your property. Microclimates are small pockets of space in which the climate of the immediate area doesn’t match the broader climate of your location. For example, an asphalt driveway will hold onto warmth longer than a patch of grass will, so any pots placed on the driveway will be exposed to that extra warmth. On the one hand, this could mean that the pots dry out more quickly, but on the other hand, the plants may grow better thanks to the warmer soil.
What Size Pot? Here’s a Handy Tool
The most fundamental part of container gardening is—surprise—picking the right container! Vegetables need enough room for their roots to stretch out and grow strong, and bigger pots hold more soil and water to keep them happy.
How big should your pot be? Our handy new tool takes the guesswork out of container gardening. Just look up your veggie, and we’ll tell you the minimum pot size it needs to flourish. —> Try the Vegetable Container Size Tool »
Most vegetables need at least 12 inches of soil to grow well, but larger vegetables will require more space. A 5-gallon container is the minimum size for growing a tomato or squash plant, while a smaller container would be perfectly fine for shallow-rooted plants such as lettuce or other greens.
Bear in mind: Larger containers will be heavier and harder to move, and may be too heavy for somewhere like a balcony. On the other hand, small containers are easier to move and more versatile but tend to dry out faster, requiring more attention on hot days.
Further below, we have a handy chart with the best vegetables for containers, and we’ve matched up the right size pots.
How Large Should the Drainage Holes Be?
A container should have a drainage hole or some other way to allow water to pass through it. Water-logged soil promotes bacterial and fungal growth, which will stunt plants’ productivity or kill them outright. Your climate factors into this as well; gardeners in drier areas may want to choose containers that retain more moisture, while those in more humid environments may want containers that allow for more airflow.
If you have a container that is 4 to 6 inches in diameter, then you just need 3 to 6 drainage holes where each is 1/4-inch in size. Larger containers need 6 to 8 drainage holes that are 1/4-inch in size. Holes larger than 1/4 inch in diameter will allow too much soil to escape.
What Type of Pot Should I Use for Container Gardening?
From plastic pots and cinderblocks to whiskey barrels and wheelbarrows, almost anything that holds soil can be gardened in. The final important factor to consider is what the container is made of. These days, containers come in all sorts of types, each with its upsides and downsides. Here are a few of the most popular container materials:
Plastic: Plastic pots come in all sorts of shapes, colors, and sizes, which makes them one of the most popular choices for container gardening. Plastic pots also tend to be the cheapest option. They are relatively lightweight, hold in moisture well, and are easy to clean and reuse for many gardening seasons down the line. If you’re growing edibles, be sure to choose pots made out of food-grade plastic so that chemicals won’t leach into the soil.
Ceramic (terra-cotta): Ceramic pots are another popular choice. They tend to be more decorative than plastic pots but are also quite a bit heavier—especially when filled with soil. Ceramic pots come in glazed or unglazed styles; the main difference is that glazed pots hold more moisture than unglazed pots. The great thing about ceramic pots is that the clay is porous, which allows some level of air and water to flow through it. This ensures that soil doesn’t get overly wet, but it also means that soil in (unglazed) clay pots will dry out more quickly than in plastic pots. Additionally, ceramic pots are susceptible to cracking in cold weather, so they should be emptied and stored in a sheltered area through the winter.
Fabric: Fabric pots have become more popular in recent years thanks to their lightweight nature and breathability. They often come with handles, too, which makes moving them around very easy. Plus, they can be washed and reused fairly easily. The fabric allows air and water to flow easily through the pot, which is beneficial to plants’ roots, as they are encouraged to become more fibrous and, therefore, more efficient at taking in water and nutrients. One downside to fabric pots is that they dry out rather quickly, so consistent watering will be required.
Again, almost anything can be used as a container, so get creative! Hanging baskets make good use of extra space. Use whiskey barrels (a wooden half-barrel can yield an amazing amount of food), buckets, baskets, boxes, bath- and other tubs, window boxes, and troughs—anything that holds soil. Just be sure that it has drainage holes in the bottom and is a size that you can manage. Cherry tomatoes, herbs, and strawberries grown at eye level can be easily tended and harvested.
Watch the video below for more information on choosing the right container:
The Best Soil for Container Gardening
In order to grow healthy plants, you need healthy soil. Plants in containers need the best possible nutrients, aeration, and drainage in order to encourage healthy root growth and to produce a good harvest.
Do not use soil from the garden! Most garden soils are too heavy, can become easily waterlogged and compacted, and harbor disease and insects. Instead, use a “soilless” potting mix that’s specifically formulated for use in containers. It will be quick-draining and lightweight and shouldn’t contain any diseases or pests.
Soilless potting mixes tend to consist of some combination of peat (or coconut coir), perlite, and vermiculite, as well as other additives such as ground limestone and granulated fertilizers to provide nutrients. Here’s how to make your own soilless mix at home.
Got compost? Humus is a fantastic material to add to your container mix, as it contains plenty of nutrients and loosens the media. Read all about making compost!
The Best Vegetables for Containers
Some veggies do better than others when grown in containers. Vegetables that can be easily transplanted are typically great candidates; transplants can be purchased from local nurseries or started from seed at home.
In general, gravitate toward vegetable varieties that are considered “dwarf” or “container,” as they tend to stay smaller and are better suited to the container lifestyle. Check out seed catalogs for varieties that do best in pots.
Among tomatoes, for example, choose “bush” or “determinate” varieties, as they will grow to a set height and won’t get unwieldy in a container.
Here is a range of delicious crops suitable for beginner growers and for growing in different types of containers, from traditional pots to window boxes to planters.
Beans, snap Container: 2-gallon pot (8 to 9 inches in diameter), 8 to 10 inches deep, 3 plants. Varieties: Bush ‘Blue Lake’, Bush ‘Romano’, ‘Tender Crop’
Broccoli Container: 5-gallon pot (12-inch diameter)for 1 plant, 12 to 18 inches deep Varieties: ‘DeCicco’, ‘Green Comet’
Carrots Container: 1 gallon (6-7 inch diameter) for 3 to 4 plants, 12 to 18 inches deep Varieties: ‘Danvers Half Long’, ‘Short ‘n Sweet’, ‘Tiny Sweet’
Cucumbers Container: 5-gallon pot (12-inch diameter) for 2 plants, 12 to 18 inches deep Varieties: ‘Patio Pik’, ‘Pot Luck’, ‘Spacemaster’
Eggplant Container: 5-gallon pot (12-inch diameter) for 1 plant, 12 to 18 inches deep Varieties: ‘Black Beauty’, ‘Ichiban’, ‘Slim Jim’
Lettuce Container: 1-gallon container (6 to 7 inches in diameter) for 3 to 4 plants, 6 to 8 inches dee Varieties: ‘Ruby’, ‘Salad Bowl’
Onions (bulbing) Container: 2-gallon container (8 to 9-inch diameter) for 3 to 4 plants, 12 to 18 inches deep Varieties: ‘White Sweet Spanish’, ‘Yellow Sweet Spanish’
Peppers Container: 3-gallon pot (8 to 9 inches in diameter) for 1 plant, 12 to 18 inches deep Varieties: ‘Cayenne’, ‘Long Red’, ‘Sweet Banana’, ‘Wonder’, ‘Yolo’
Radishes Container: 2-gallon pot (8 to 9 inches in diameter) for 5 to 6 plants, 6 to 8 inches deep Varieties: ‘Cherry Belle’, ‘Icicle’
Tomatoes Container: 5-gallon pot (12-inch diameter) for 1 plant, 18 to 24 inches deep. Varieties: ‘Early Girl’, ‘Patio’, ‘Small Fry’, ‘Sweet 100’, ‘Tiny Tim’
Check out our video for more information on which plants will thrive in your container garden:
Planting Tips for Containers
To maximize space and thus your harvest, try planting low-growers and tall climbers together in the same container.
The climbers will eagerly scramble up a trellis.
The small plants spread around their base.
You’ll hardly need to weed because there won’t be any room for weeds to gain a foothold, and during the height of summer, some low-growers (leafy greens, for example) will thrive in the shade provided by the taller plants.
Group plants with similar sun and water needs, such as pole beans, radishes, and lettuce; cucumbers, bush beans, and beets; tomatoes, basil, and onions; and peas and carrots.
How to Water Containers
Because they are more exposed to sun and wind, containers tend to dry out more quickly than traditional gardens or raised beds. Especially during the hottest days of summer, many plants grown in pots must be watered as often as twice a day!
Containers can be watered in a number of ways—hoses, watering cans, drip irrigation. Choose a method that makes the most sense for you and the size of your garden.
A few watering pointers:
Water in the morning (or as early as possible). Ideally, container plants should be watered as early in the day as possible. Watering early in the day provides plants with enough moisture to get them through the hotter midday hours. It also ensures that their leaves dry off by the time that night falls; having moisture on leaves at night can encourage the spread of disease.
Water deeply. Plants need water at their roots, so simply spraying the surface of the soil with the hose isn’t enough. Water plants—especially those in containers—deeply and thoroughly to ensure that water reaches down to their roots. After a watering, the soil should be saturated and water should run out the bottom of the pot. Alternatively, try watering from the bottom: Place a tray under the pot and fill it with water. The soil will absorb the water through the drainage hole(s). Repeat until no more water is absorbed, then dump out any excess water from the tray.
Don’t water too frequently! It may sound counterintuitive, but watering a plant with a small amount of water very frequently is worse than watering with a large amount infrequently. Frequent, shallow waterings encourage plants to develop weak, shallow roots, while infrequent, deep waterings encourage them to put down deeper, healthier roots. Most plants can tolerate—and actually benefit from—having a little break between deep waterings, so don’t be afraid to let the soil dry out a little bit between waterings.
Other key things to keep in mind are the size of the pot and the weather. Smaller pots will dry out a lot more quickly than larger pots and will require more frequent waterings. Hot, sunny days are naturally more drying than cool, cloudy ones, so expect to water more during heat waves. Overall, pay attention to the speed at which your container soil dries out as well as how your plants react; you will soon get a sense for how often you need to water!
One way to keep container plants adequately cool and moist during hot summer days is to double-pot them: Place a small pot inside a larger one and fill the space between them with sphagnum moss or crumpled newspaper. When watering the plant, also soak the filler between the pots. Caution: be sure to check your double-potted plants often, as the extra layer can also be a nice spot for pests to hide!
Fertilizing Container Gardens
Water flows through containers quickly, flushing nutrients out with it. This can be a good thing, as it will flush out any buildup of salts in the soil. However, this also means that it’s necessary to replenish those nutrients by feeding container plants more regularly than those grown in the ground.
In general, we recommend adding a slow-release fertilizer to your potting mix at the start of the gardening season. This can be done by either mixing it into your potting mix at planting, or by sprinkling fertilizer on top of the potting mix (i.e., “top-dressing”) right after planting. This will give your plants a good head start on growth.
While they’re actively growing, flowering, and fruiting, use a liquid fertilizer to feed container plants at least twice a month, following the instructions on the label. It’s always a good idea to test your soil first, if possible, to gauge whether or not additional fertilizer is necessary. An occasional application of fish emulsion or compost will add trace elements to container soil as well.
While we won’t discourage you from chatting with your plants every now and then, in this case, we mean physical support. Support tall or climbing vegetables with trellises, stakes, netting, twine, or cages. Here’s how to build your own trellis or wooden supports.
A teepee of bamboo stakes will hold pole beans or snap peas well. Cucumbers trained to climb up a nylon mesh fence will develop fruit that hang down and grow straight. To avoid damaging the plants or their roots, put supports in place at the time of planting.
See How to Do It With Ben!
Our colleague Ben shows us how he makes his veggie containers, helping his neighbor along the way. He explains how to tailor-make your potting mixes to what you want to grow. Plus, as always, he’s got a few tricks up his sleeve for making the pots look great, too. Plus, he covers a few other good container plants, from potatoes to strawberries.
Robin Sweetser is a longtime gardening writer, editor, and speaker. She and her partner, Tom, have a small greenhouse business, selling plants and cutting flowers and vegetables from their home and lo...
I had two topsy turvy's that I tried growing tomatoes in and we ended up with blossom rot on both of them. I am in the South, hot, humid with days feeling as tho one lives in a steam sauna and don't know if that had anything to do with the problem or not. I watered once a day but wondered if it was bad for the plants to have all that water pouring out all over the plants. If anyone has a suggestion, I would be willing to try it again.
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<span>Sandi H.</span>Tue, 03/27/2012 - 08:12
Try adding 1 tsp of epson salts to your water. They can be found in a pharmacy. Blossom end rot is usually caused by lack of calcium during the growing season. Good luck and don't give up.
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<span>Joann Sherman</span>Wed, 03/30/2011 - 13:39
They will be less traumatized if you cover the dark exterior with light paper, thick cloth, or canvas. The "heat is drawn to dark" theory is real. And in this case - it is not beneficial.
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<span>Turnerke</span>Fri, 02/11/2011 - 11:44
I have had success growing eggplant and chili peppers in Topsy Turvy's I wish they made one with a zipper on the side so that it would be easier to put a larger plant in the bag. I have found when working with smaller plants there is a lighting issue until they flip their leaves, like the bag shades the plant to the point where they start off slow. Once the plants gets bigger it is game on these things work great as long as you water the plants correctly. I am not positive of this but I also think certain pests have a harder time getting to the plants when they hang upside down.
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<span>Kpleffler</span>Tue, 08/31/2010 - 11:14
I had excellent success with my topsy turvy's this year. I bought seven and hung them in a wooden frame I made from 4x4's, with the bottom of the planters being about 8 feet off the ground (my wife says it looks like a row of planters hanging from a gallows...). In their current location, they get about 7 hours of direct sunlight per day.
I had initially purchased several shepherd hooks, but I immediately learned that my freshly prepared planters were far too heavy for them. I then put two double hooks together with a brace and that still didn't hold a single planter. Also, three of my plants became so large that, had the hooks been strong enough, half of the plant would be dragging on the ground.
Five of the seven held tomatoes (1 Cherry, 2 Roma, 2 Globe-type), one held peppers (sweet banana, hungarian wax, and low heat jalapenos), and the last one held strawberries.
My soil for each of the planters was the same: a combination of fertilizer, good dirt, perlite (to help with drainage), and miracle grow potting soil. I then added bone meal once the plants started to flower.
Once the plants begin to grow, they will curl upward. This is normal. As the plant begins to grow, gravity and the mass of the plant will do their thing and the plant will straighten out.
The topsy turvy's have some huge benefits (no weeding, no steaking, I had no need to support the plant, etc). And, I don't have to stoop over to pick or prune. Another benefit was pest reduction. I did lose one Roma early to a nasty, huge worm, but I let the plant come back and it is now producing again. In all, I had far fewer pest problems with the turvys than I did with my raised bed planted tomatoes.
The only draw back I experienced is that they need watered DAILY, and when the weather is hot an additional watering may be necessary. I was initially concerned about over-watering, but I quickly learned that more water was necessary. Also, we had a lot of rain this year, but the topsy turvy's didn't seem to capture rain as well as I would have liked.
I grew up in the desert, but the topsy turvys did not exist then. I would still use them, but would have some sort of temporary shade available should you have too many hot days in a row.
My best producer was my cherry tomato plant; 437 delicious tomatoes weighing just under 7 lbs, and I will be picking a bunch more in a few days. I also picked 102 Romas and about 20 lbs of globes. I was very pleased with the peppers, but the strawberry plants were a total bust. I live in the northern midwest, so our growing season does not traditionally begin until mid-may and it usually ends in September, so my plants may not have been as prolific as plants grown in warmer climes.
Good Luck!
This was my first experience with topsey turveys. I have 2.I have a patio garden. At first I planted tomatoes in both.The plants started to curl up into the bottom of the turvey.I replanted both. Same thing happened again. Once again I replanted. This time one was tomatoe and one zucchini.I just let them do thier own thing.Not many tomatoes were produced, though season isnt over yet. The tomatoes that were produced are very large(not many- but Id be happy with just one). I had to make a sling for the branches. Once the branch breaks, its over.The zucchini is awesome. Lots of male blossoms 2 zucchinis that are very slow growing.Both turveys have produced majestic displays of greenery on my porch.I dont expect to get another growing season out of the turveys,as I dont believe they are made to last multiple uses/seasons.I will be using them again.I sit on my porch and compare zucchini plants. I also have a mistake/ rogue zuccini seed that has florished into a freak of nature it the corner of my porch.With the turvy producing so many male blossoms, I want to get a shepards hook and plant next years turvey above the ground plated zucchini. Figuring/ hoping the male pollen might dust down onto the female blossoms below(just a thought).Being disabled it is an awesome way to be able to grow. Literally no weeding, no bending. Id send pics as I have been photo documenting every week. Im very proud of my patio garden
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<span>Bsbowlan</span>Tue, 05/18/2010 - 08:42
We tried the Topsy Turvy for the first time last year. We didn't get a single tomato but I think that where we placed the plant was not ideal. This year we put it in a different place and it is growing very well. We have green tomatoes on the plant right now. However, make sure that you secure the top with a screen or something because birds will try to nest in it!!
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<span>Kevinjones29</span>Fri, 04/02/2010 - 00:23
The problem with the upside down planters is that the dry out very fast. If you want one of these besure it has a water resevor at the top that will trikle water into the soil over time.
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<span>Cactus4</span>Sat, 10/03/2009 - 16:50
We have a problem with White Flys this time of the year.They get on anything green it seems.I spray with water from the hose trying to drown the things,but an hour later their back.How can I kill them and repel them??can't grow anything in containers or the ground,they die.
Thanks
Ray
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<span>Wvjlmartin</span>Sun, 03/07/2010 - 11:39
I had white flies on my tomatoes last year. I tried the yellow plastic smeared with oil or Vaseline. They were attracted to it, but were still on my plants.
My neighbor told me to use 2 tablespoons of bleach to a gallon of water and spray my tomatoes. This worked better than the oil on a yellow plate. It did not harm my plants either.
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